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Asia

Mongolia

Three white gers on golden steppe below snow-dusted mountains

Endless steppe, Gobi sand dunes and nights in a nomad’s ger under more stars than you have ever seen.

Mongolia is one of the emptiest countries on earth, and there are hardly any paved roads beyond the capital. Most backpackers team up with others in an Ulaanbaatar hostel and share a jeep, a driver and a cook for a week or more.

The classic loop heads south to the dunes and canyons of the Gobi, then north to the old capital of Kharkhorin and the Orkhon Valley. With more time, carry on to the clear waters of Lake Khövsgöl near the Russian border.

Good to know

Time zone
GMT+8, GMT+7 in the far west
Plugs
Types C and E, 230V
Emergency numbers
102 police, 103 ambulance, 101 fire
Tap water
Drink bottled or filtered
Traffic drives on the
Right
Tipping
Not traditionally expected, but tip your driver, guide and cook at the end of a tour, around 10% of the cost.
SIM cards
Mobicom and Unitel SIMs with a data pack cost about 15,000–30,000 tögrög, but coverage fades quickly once you leave the towns.

When to go to Mongolia

Best months to go: June to September. Pick a month to see what it’s like.

Bars show rainfall; numbers are the average daytime high. Amber marks the best months to go.

SeptemberBest time to go

Autumn colours and cold nights in the gers. Fewer people on the road.

Daytime high
15°C
Rainfall
25 mm
Crowds
Quiet
Weather and crowds by month
MonthDaytime highRainfallCrowdsBest time to go
January-15°C2 mmQuietNo
February-10°C2 mmQuietNo
March-1°C4 mmQuietNo
April9°C8 mmQuietNo
May17°C15 mmQuietNo
June22°C50 mmBusyYes
July24°C70 mmPeak seasonYes
August22°C60 mmBusyYes
September15°C25 mmQuietYes
October6°C7 mmQuietNo
November-5°C4 mmQuietNo
December-13°C3 mmQuietNo

What Mongolia costs

Work out a budget for your trip, then check what everyday things cost.

How do you travel?

Dorm beds, street food and public transport.

14 days

$644for 14 days, about $46 a day (₮2,290,000 in total)

Daily costs, per person
CostPer dayFor the trip
Bed$10$140
Food and drink$8$112
Getting around$22$308
Things to do$4$56
Everything else$2$28

Per person, in US dollars. Flights and insurance not included.

What things cost

  • Plate of buuz dumplings₮9,000, about $2.54
  • Khuushuur (fried meat pastry)₮2,500, about $0.70
  • Cup of milk tea₮2,000, about $0.56
  • Bottle of local beer in a bar₮8,000, about $2.25
  • Hostel dorm bed in Ulaanbaatar₮30,000, about $8.45
  • Bus, Ulaanbaatar to Kharkhorin₮25,000, about $7.04
  • Day on a shared jeep tour, all in₮200,000, about $56

Routes through Mongolia

Where to go and how long to stay, for the time you’ve got.

14 nights, 4 stops

A shared jeep tour to the Gobi and the old capital, with a few days either side in and around Ulaanbaatar.

  1. Ulaanbaatar

    3 nights

    Gandan Monastery, the National Museum and finding a tour group at your hostel.

  2. Terelj National Park

    2 nights

    Granite hills, horse riding and a first night in a ger.

  3. Gobi Desert

    6 nights

    The White Stupa cliffs, the ice canyon of Yolyn Am and the singing dunes of Khongoryn Els.

  4. Orkhon Valley and Kharkhorin

    3 nights

    Erdene Zuu Monastery, waterfalls and nomad families on the move.

Getting around

  • Jeep / 4x4

    $50–70 a day per person on a shared tour

    Russian vans and Land Cruisers are the only practical way to reach the Gobi and the lakes. The price usually covers the driver, fuel, food and a ger bed.

  • Bus

    $7–25 to most provincial towns

    Public buses leave Ulaanbaatar’s Dragon bus station for the aimag capitals. From there you need a local driver.

  • Flight

    $100–200 one way

    Domestic flights to Mörön, Dalanzadgad and Ölgii save days of driving but are often delayed.

  • Train

    $15–60 depending on class

    The Trans-Mongolian line runs north to Russia and south to China, with slow local trains in between.

What to eat and drink

  • Buuz

    Steamed dumplings filled with mutton or beef, eaten by the dozen at Tsagaan Sar.

    ₮9,000, about $2.54

  • Khuushuur

    Flat, fried pastries stuffed with minced mutton. The taste of Naadam.

    ₮2,500, about $0.70

  • Tsuivan

    Hand-cut noodles fried with mutton and vegetables. A standard roadside lunch.

    ₮12,000, about $3.38

  • Khorkhog

    Mutton cooked in a sealed churn with hot stones, usually made for guests out in the countryside.

  • Suutei tsai

    Salty milk tea, offered the moment you step into a ger.

    ₮2,000, about $0.56

  • Airag

    Fermented mare’s milk, slightly fizzy and sour. Summer only, and always offered.

    ₮3,000, about $0.85

Say it like a local

A few words go a long way. Tap “Hear it” to listen, where your browser can.

  • Hello

    Сайн байна уу

    Say it like: sain bain-oh

  • Thank you

    Баярлалаа

    Say it like: bai-yar-lal-aa

  • How much is it?

    Үнэ хэд вэ?

    Say it like: oo-neh khed veh

  • Delicious

    Амттай

    Say it like: amt-tai

  • No, I don’t need it

    Хэрэггүй

    Say it like: kheh-reg-gwee

  • Hold the dogs! (said on reaching a ger)

    Нохой хорь!

    Say it like: no-khoi khor

  • Cheers!

    Эрүүл мэндийн төлөө!

    Say it like: eh-rool men-deen tuh-luh

  • Goodbye

    Баяртай

    Say it like: bai-yar-tai

Questions travellers ask

How do I join a tour?

Most hostels in Ulaanbaatar run shared jeep tours and will match you with other travellers. Agree the route, the number of days and what is included in writing before you pay.

Can I travel on my own?

It is possible with public buses and hitchhiking, but distances are huge and there are no signposts in the countryside. Most people find a shared driver cheaper and far less stressful.

What should I know about staying in a ger?

Don’t step on the threshold, move clockwise inside and take anything offered with your right hand. Try a little of whatever you are given, even if you don’t finish it.

What about showers and toilets?

Out in the countryside, a toilet is usually a hole in the ground and showers come every few days at a tourist camp or hot spring. Bring wet wipes and a head torch.

Should I time my trip for Naadam?

The wrestling, archery and horse racing in July are brilliant, but beds and tours in Ulaanbaatar sell out and prices rise. Smaller local Naadams in the countryside are cheaper and more relaxed.