Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan by sleeper train
Agra
The Golden Triangle and beyond on Indian Railways: how to book, which class to ride and what the Taj looks like at sunrise.
India by train is one of the great travel experiences, and it is easier to book than it used to be. We did three weeks from Delhi to Agra, then through Rajasthan to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, almost all of it on overnight sleepers.
The Taj Mahal is everything people say, but only if you’re at the east gate for opening, half an hour before sunrise. By nine it is shoulder to shoulder. In Jodhpur, stay in the old blue city below the fort; in Udaipur, find a rooftop with a lake view.
Riding the trains
Book on the IRCTC website or app (foreigners can register with a passport) up to 60 days ahead. Sleeper class is cheapest and liveliest; 3AC has air conditioning and bedding for about three times the price, and is what most travellers choose. Tourist quota seats are held back for foreigners if trains sell out.