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Learning to surf in Ericeira

Ericeira

A week at a surf house on Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve, from total beginner to catching green waves.

Ericeira, 50 minutes from Lisbon, is a fishing village of white and blue houses above a coastline with a wave for every level. It became Europe’s first World Surfing Reserve in 2011 and has dozens of surf houses that combine a bed, meals and lessons.

We had never surfed. Day one was in the whitewash at Foz do Lizandro, day three we were standing, and by the end of the week we were paddling for small green waves at Praia do Sul. It is exhausting, humbling and completely addictive.

Choosing a surf house

A week with lessons, board and wetsuit, breakfast and a shared room costs €450 to €700. Spring and autumn have the best conditions for beginners; winter swells are for experts only. Bring sun cream: the Atlantic is cold, but the sun is strong.