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Rome on foot: ruins by day, supplì by night

Rome

Three days walking the city, from the Forum to Trastevere, with the best cheap food along the way.

Rome is a walking city. The centre is compact, the buses are unreliable and every street has something you would stop for. We walked 20 kilometres a day and still didn’t see half of it.

Book the Colosseum and Forum combined ticket online and go at opening time; the ticket covers the Palatine Hill too, which most people skip and which has the best view over the Forum. Wander from the Pantheon to Piazza Navona to the Trevi Fountain in the evening, when it is lit and slightly less busy.

Eating cheaply

Supplì (fried rice balls with mozzarella) from a friggitoria, pizza al taglio by weight, and trapizzino, a pocket of pizza bread stuffed with Roman stews. Drink from the nasoni, the free public water fountains, all over the city. Avoid anywhere with photos on the menu near the big sights.